‘’ It’s a lookback at every detail from the previous collections, remembering the reality of the current moment and the person who will wear it, and bring it to life. Now more than ever women should be powerful and impactful. It’s about time for the change to happen” Ilyes Ouali, Creative Director.
At ILYES OUALI, cord is key, using it as an embroidery tool, to shy away from the traditional embroideries, taking it to a new level of sophistication and craftsmanship. Unisng the cord as a symbol of framing the body through the light and shadow, where this collection began.Test Pattern  from the Japanese artist Ryoji Akeda, is a light and music installation, it develops a mixture of opposites from Random to controlled, absurd to sublime, minimal to maximal feelings – it nods to the different state of minds that we go through, as it is punctuated through this collection.
The Fall-Winter 21 collection explores the brand’s return to the roots and making a clear vision of what is to come. As many changes happened in this pandemic, the collection was a fresh comeback, yet is intermingled with elements of the archive. Above all, it is more personal and relatable to the brand’s faithful customer.
From the layering pattern techniques, contemporary cord embroideries and contrasting patchwork, mixing all those core elements to create a collection that screams the codes of ILYES OUALI. Ultimately, it is a feeling of elegance, playfulness and pragmatism, that is key to Ilyes’s vison for the house.
There is a notion of evolution, both lightered and serious, in this play of elements of the past and present. From the contemporary cord embroidery, contrasting patchwork and the layering illusion, each is a play on and a development of existing codes from the archive. Ilyes’s signature cord manipulation and experimentation is shown elegantly through evening dresses and tops. Taking embroidery to a different level with the Swarovski crystal cord used to evoke more opulence.
At the same time taking the wardrobe essentials, from cotton shirts, pencil skirts to bodycon dresses to be refined and re-contextualised. At the same time an experiment of casualising the eveningwear, the use of jersey fabrics from different forms, providing a cool and comfortable feel to the formal looks.